04/26/05
MIRAGE WON'T WOW you with fancy décor or belly dancers. But if you're looking for a convivial, unassuming atmosphere — and especially if you don't know ash-e-reshteh from ash-e-anar (both are soups) — this is a restaurant where you can relax and enjoy solid Persian cuisine without distractions. NO ILLUSIONS: Except for the cooking, everything about Mirage seems modest. The Sandy Springs strip center storefront could be anywhere in suburban Atlanta. Inside, the framed Persian art on the walls offers the only clue that this is an ethnic restaurant. But the basic black tables and chairs are comfortable, and the service is friendly and accommodating. FEAST OF SULTANS: The menu offers 18 variations of charbroiled kebabs, including beef, chicken, lamb and seafood, plus a vegetarian version with eggplant, green peppers, onions and squash. On a recent evening, we tried an assortment of meats and found them all tender, remarkably juicy and flavorful, with a subtle bend of seasonings in the marinades. Our favorite, though, was the Chelow Kebab Soltanti (the feast of sultans). Featuring one skewer of melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon strips and one skewer of onion-infused ground sirloin pieces, it's a high/low combo that's simply delicious. We also really liked the savory lamb with hints of mint and garlic. Chicken breast chunks, while a bit bland, were amazingly moist. And the nicely charred whole broiled tomatoes and slices of onions and peppers made a perfect foil for the meats. Next time, we'd like to try the shrimp and salmon kebabs.
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